Mile 0 of the ICW starts in Norfolk, VA ending in Miami, FL at Mile 1095. These are statute miles and for dummies including myself, 1 nautical mile = 1.1508 statute miles. The last time we made this trip, we headed across to the Bahamas at Mile 1018 in Palm Beach. Because we don’t have a schedule or plan and weather matters, we could cross anywhere between Ft. Pierce (Mile 965) and Miami.
Currently, we are at Mile 204 passing through NC to Beaufort seeing the affects of Hurricane Florence. The marina in Belhaven, Forest River Marina, had only been open for 2 days prior to our arrival. Belhaven is completely exposed from the Outer Banks across Pamilco Sound and the Pungo River. A wooden breakwater protects the entrance to the harbor but the water flooded right over. Their dock was wiped out needing at least 24 pilings, all new decking, electrical, plumbing and new fuel pumps and lines. Houses and stores were flooded with many vacant and closed.
In Oriental, we had dinner with former Hullonians, Geri & Steve who gave more graphic details of 9’ tides above the 1-2’ norm lasting 3+ days flooding many businesses and homes including those raised above the ground, compounded by power outages lasting 10 days. My favorite coffee shop, The Bean right across from the town docks on 8’ foot pilings was sadly closed for repairs due to flooding. There were piles of insulation, sheetrock, flooring, furniture and stuff that had been striped out from many homes waiting for pickup from the FEMA crew. One elderly female resident who refused to evacuate, rolled towels and wrung them out to stop water at her door. The day we walked by, she was sitting in her yard cracking pecans that she had harvested as if nothing happened. On the bright side, we all feasted on fresh shrimp and Geri's home baked cookies aboard the Windemere while watching the sun set.
Beaufort at Mile 204 has 4+ boats ashore along Bird Shoal and Carrot Island that give an ominous feeling. The marina where we stayed was sparsely occupied with about a dozen large yachts on the outer docks being moved by crew. What was missing was the smaller owner captained cruising boats. There were a handful but not what we remembered from years past and the restaurants along the waterfront were pretty empty. It’s still early and we are guessing that people are holding back given the destruction of Florence followed by Michael in this area.
