Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Feb 27 - 28 - Cedar Key

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A quick two night stay in one of our favorite spots in “Old” Florida, Cedar Key is close to the bend going into the panhandle. We stay at Shell Mound County Park that is about 8 miles out of town bordering the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge on all sides. First come first serve, there has always been space but coming in on a Monday is almost guaranteed. For the first time, we took #12 which is front and center next to the ramp and at the beginning of a trail out to a point. It really has the best air and view but can be noisy when the airboats are launched or hauled. It wasn’t a problem until about 11:00 last night. The roar of engines seemed to be all around but we never got the sense anyone was going anywhere. Being an odd time of night, the side door we hoped to keep open was shut and locked as were the other doors. Next morning we learned that a boat bringing in bags of oysters was busted by the Fish & Game folks.

Harry scrounging around the next morning found a bag of cast off oysters and took a modest half dozen to grill up for apps. Yum! So far, all’s quiet tonight.

Tomorrow after a quick visit to town, we are headed a bit more west to Newport County Park at the entrance to St. Mark’s Wildlife Refuge. A couple nights there and then it’s time to go back to the coast and meander home.

Feb 22 - 26 - Myakka River SP & Sarasota

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Myakka River State Park is one of the oldest and more popular parks in Florida with reservations hard to get unless made 11 months and a day ahead. We never know what we are doing tomorrow but lucked out by finding a 4 night cancellation in Old Prairie CG. A few sites down, we met fellow Roadtrekers, Mike & Judy, newly retired on a 9 month journey in their 210 Popular from British Columbia. Over the next several days, we shared many organizational, space saving, mechanical and electrical ideas that I know expanded our “to do list” and probably theirs as well. I hope our paths cross again.

With 58 square miles, there are many paved and dirt roads for hiking and biking at Myakka and the habitat is varied with wetlands, prairies and pine woods. The prairies are being aggressively restored through prescribed burns and many areas along the road had just been burned about 2 days before our arrival. During this visit, we got 2 of the 30 permits issued daily to go out into the wilderness preserve and hiked along w/Mike & Judy to Deep Hole, a sink hole that is about 130’ deep and attracts many alligators and birds. The park was in the process of preparing for a burn in that area by grinding down the scrub with heavy machinery that will be burned in the next several months depending on water level and humidity. A bit loud but interesting process to watch.

I was able to spend two early mornings biking down to the dam behind the concession area to photograph, one really foggy and the second bright sun with very different results.

Moving up about 14 miles, we spent a night with long time friends, Chris & Diane, at their home outside of Sarasota. Lots of catching up, a hike at Celery Fields (Audubon property), delicious meal and of course extraordinary selections in wine. Nina really enjoyed dog friends Onee & Sage. A wonderful stay - many thanks!

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Feb 22 - Rainy drive up to Myakka River SP

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Just a rainy day drive through Marco Island looking for burrowing owls, haircut in Naples, food shop and now settled for four days at Myakka River State Park just outside of Sarasota in a very soggy campsite but the sun will shine tomorrow.

Despite the pouring rain, the owls were everywhere sitting on perches outside their mounds exactly where Steve told us to look. 

Haircuts on the other hand are always a wildcard on the road. Pulling into the shop parking lot where I had made an appointment by phone, there was a big barber's pole painted on the side, a sign advertising senior men's cuts for eight bucks and a bunch of guys inside getting buzz cuts. Panic set in and all instincts said run but I didn't and got a really great cut from Mari. Next week she will be opening her own salon and spa. To all friends living or traveling through Naples, if in need, go to MJ Salon & Spa, 4766 Golden Gate Pkwy, 239-455-2472.

The last treat just before the campground was finding a pair of sandhill cranes with one baby.

Feb 18 - 21 - Tamiami Highway

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Our last days at Flamingo were spent doing what we liked best. A phenomenal bird walk with Ranger Bob where we racked up 61 different species of birds including the mangrove cuckoo I found several days earlier. Lunch at the cafe by the visitor’s center and marina, a bit of photography and reading time, more fine dining in S & E’s screen tent with air conditioned drives sprinkled in to get a reprieve from the bugs and heat. During our time here, we had moved to 3 different sites trying to find more air and less bugs. Time to go.

On previous trips to the Everglades, we have always flown down the Tamiami Highway to somewhere else so this time the goal was to spend a couple days exploring Big Cypress National Preserve. One day at Monument Lake CG was very nice with sites around a man made lake in site 13 - the best spot. Spectacular sunrise coming up through the fog and trees the next morning. Next up, Collier Seminole SP where we caught up w/S & E and spent a couple nights before going our separate ways visiting family and friends. 

This was R & R so Harry had time to practice with his fly casting and extended his range another 10’. He had to stop when a 1’ baby alligator started chasing his fly (photo included). Another cool “nature at it’s best” photo op caught me unprepared. I was walking a trail and saw what I thought was a bird low on the ground but looking closer saw that it was a butterfly caught and being devoured by a lizard. Traveling light, I left my camera behind so what you see is from my phone.

Friday, February 17, 2017

Feb. 12 - 17 - Flamingo in Everglades NP


One day blends into the next and almost a week later, our blood and energy is slowly getting drained. The fresher air lasted a few days and then the mosquito meter hit the top of the charts at “hysterical” and seems to be stuck. It is possible this is the new norm as the park continues the restoration of the watershed. Not surprising, the campground has been very empty. People come and go just as quickly. 

Regardless, we have been trudging around in long pants, socks, buffs treated w/insecticide, hats, nets and DEET. Soon you will see a group photo in our attire but until then here’s a preview of Nina modeling the Buff. 



We are still enjoying the birds, biking, some fishing and canoeing around to Snake Bight. Ellen has finally seen the elusive mangrove cuckoo and we both got awarded Everglades Junior Park Ranger badges for not bailing with all the mozzies. S & E planned to leave on Sunday and we have decided to cut our stay short by 5 days and do the same. Harry has been a pretty good sport but it’s time to move on. We’ll head west along the Tamiami and up the west coast of FL.


Saturday, February 11, 2017

Feb 8 - 11 - Everglades National Park

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Finally we have arrived at one of my favorite places and cornerstone of the trip. The first two nights, we stayed at the top of the park at Long Pine CG for shopping, laundry and early morning time at the Anhinga Trail. While it was snowing in Massachusetts, it was one of the hottest, most uncomfortable two days and a night on our trip. 

The waters were high at Anhinga so bird life was more sparse than normal. It was a beautiful morning with the sun rising up through fog. In fact, I saw my first fog rainbow that was a complete semicircle of white fog but unfortunately I only had a zoom lens that couldn’t capture it. 

As you will see by the photos, this posting is for the birds but the quality of the photos is all about the person I met on the trail, Roger. He was very patient with tips for improving my technique using the zoom. The lens, a Nikon 200-500mm, is new and the Everglades a perfect place to try it out. Side by side, I could compare my settings so I could get a better idea where I should be starting for birds in flight or wading in the water. The Crested Caracara was taken on the way to the Everglades and sharpen a bit. All the rest were taken after my time with Roger w/no sharpening. If only I had tagged along a bit longer. Many thanks R!

Knowing our plans and habits, Steve & Ellen surprised us and pulled into the Anhinga Trail just as I came out so off we all went to do our errands. The next day, we moved down to join S & E in Flamingo CG. With the screen tent up and fresher air from a passing front, we are settling in to our two weeks here.

Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Ocala down to Dupuis WMA, FL - Feb 3 - 7

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Coming into Salt Spring CG in Ocala NF brought back memories. The electric sites were full but we prefer the primitive area anyway and were assigned #143. Once settled, we realized we had been in this site about 5+ years ago. Memorable because this was the place I ducked under a palm and ended up with many tiny nymph size ticks in my hair. No bushwhacking this time.

It would have been easy to type cast our neighbors and look for another vacant site They obviously had been there for a while which is common in warm areas. With time they grew on us and their stories unfolded. 

John had a camper truck with NH ‘Nam license plates and trailer for his Harley. He had picked up Dave who is best described as a hobo hitchhiking from Iowa to Fl with his springer spaniel pup Gabe. Russell, a man w/out a home, had just been invited into the group having come out of the forest. All were disabled vets looking out for each other. John was quiet and walked with the stature of an officer but had just gone through a fusion of 3 cervical vertebra. Russell spoke in riddles, wore funny hats and spent most of the time in the forest w/a machete gathering wood.

Holding true to all the folks we have met from Iowa, Dave was an open, friendly, common sense kind of guy and handsome under all the road dirt. He bonded to Harry and gave him tips on fly casting. They swapped flies. Russell brought us wood. I gave them oranges from the local produce stand as well as a griddle meant to stay home. It was a good stay.

Moving on, we went to Blue Cypress Lake near Indiantown for one night to check it out. This is a water management and conservation area under the guise of a fish camp. There is no charge although they have showers and toilet facilities. The camping area is grassy diagonal parking on a finger of land bordered by a fishing canal and cedar swamp. Although the lake is big, the only place you can look out is from a walking bridge. Unsettling was a dead cotton mouth snake hit by a car not far from our van. Without kayaks to explore, one night was enough. The next stop will help connect the dots w/Blue Cypress and explain the lazy guy that throws a plug into the fishing canal and goes back into his vehicle waiting sometimes overnight for the bobber to move.

Steve & Ellen are a week ahead and have been our scouts on this journey sending reports back. They spent some time in Dupuis WMA and it sounded like a good spot. There is no charge but you need to get a permit online or at the visitor’s center. This is a great place w/many pros and one con - generator use. It is heavy mainly because the folks that stay here are for the most part squatters who sit out in their chairs hanging out. We learned more about one group’s patterns after going just once to their nightly happy hour. You can stay here for 8 days and then you must leave for at least one night and then come back for another 8 and repeat again and again. The popular alternative is Blue Cypress Lake so there is a community of people that travel back and forth. Just as a point of note, our neighbors at Salt Spring were far more interesting.

What is worth the stay is nature - the great horned owl nest w/young in the middle of the campsite and the miles of trails to bike, hike and bird. There is a graded hard packed crushed shell road that is an easy 6 mile bike ride down to a pier. Biking down, there was another owl’s nest w/a barred owl peaking out. Down at the pier while having lunch, we watched at least a 10’ alligator catch and eat a good size fish. And then there were the two guys who were birders that gave me TMI about the local snakes. They also spoke of driving the power lines at Gate 1 (take a left as you come in) for good birding for species such as crested caracara, cranes, etc. Another suggestion was Fox Bound Road just east of Indiantown as a good place for the same type of birds. We won’t have time on this visit because we are off to Long Pine CG in the Everglades tomorrow but good information to store. We would come back.

Friday, February 3, 2017

Santee Coastal Reserve, SC - Feb 1 - 2

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Perfect temperatures of 60-70 during the day and 40’s at night. The best review for Santee comes from Harry giving it a 10! Music to my ears! The campground is spacious and beautiful under the live oaks. Many trails through woods, marshland, cedar swamps and impoundments. It was quite birdy for this time of year with a highlight of many red-cocked woodpeckers. Photos will tell more.