Cobscook Bay, LLBeans in ME and Home - Aug 6 - 9

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Picnicking on the Canadian side to consume tomatoes, avocados and apples before clearing customs into the US. What we couldn't eat did indeed get confiscated, at least in Speedy. Our agent didn't seem comfortable enough to climb in with Nina. Way to go Nina!

It was a trip down memory lane returning to the Cobscook Bay area after about 44 years. The field station where I stayed is still there now owned by Suffolk University but sadly locked tight.

Passing through Washington County, the endless blueberry fields were in the process of being harvested in time for the Machias Wild Blueberry Festival held the 3rd weekend in August. One more festival we will miss but there were countless stands for buying blueberries. The ones we stopped at looked to be maintained by Wyman's perhaps to satisfy those of us who would otherwise be tempted to pick.

Fundy National Park, New Brunswick - Aug 4 - 5

Working our way back south along the coast, we ended up at Fundy National Park for a couple nights. Driving down to the Visitor's Center from the campsite this morning, we realized we were above this incredible fog bank that looked like a mountain range.

We hiked along the Western Coastal Trail for a short while through a mature forest with peaks of the water every once in a while. It was a gray windy day but good for a hike.

I haven't seen "indian pipes" since I was a kid walking in the woods with my mom who knew every living plant.

Tomorrow there is an 80% chance of rain but for us it will be a day of traveling back across the border to the US with the hopes of finding a place to rest for a couple days in Cobs Cook, ME. I came here back in 1972 when I took a summer course in marine biology so am looking forward to seeing the area again.

PEI - July 31 - Aug 3

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Crossing over the bridge to Prince Edward Island was amazing. We spent most of our time on the North Coast which is landscaped with crops of corn, grain (wheat perhaps), lots of potatoes, yards filled w/thyme and mustard fields like this one. The soil, sand and cliffs are a very rich red, quaint harbors and the people delightful. 

We stayed in 3 different parks, two provincial and the third, Green Park, that has been leased out to a private group. This was our favorite with sites right out on the river. We stopped in Tyne Valley for a long anticipated oyster lunch that turned out to be a bad choice. We asked the waitress where one could buy fresh seafood and she suggested trucks parked along the highway. She also told us Green Park was miserable with bugs. We never saw seafood trucks nor were the bugs particularly bad but in fairness to her they were spraying the day we arrived. Another helpful shopkeeper gave us directions to the Burleigh Brothers, distributors of oysters and clams, located on Burleigh Road just off East Bideford that goes out to Lenox Island. 

Life has never been so good! We made 3 trips to Burleigh’s in as many days. The first for a box of 58 oysters that we ate raw and grilled using several different methods. The winner was shucking them on the half shell and putting them carefully on the grill w/a little garlic butter oil that quickly sizzled the oyster to perfection. Second for another box of 70+ clams that went into a wonderful clam linguini and the finale, another box of 40 larger clams for the best clam chowder we devoured last night. Why eat out when we have the best collection of chefs on board! Burleigh’s ships out oysters worldwide and trucks to the Boston area on a weekly basis as Legal Seafood is one of their clients. 

They were in the process of picking, grading, cleaning and polishing oysters that will be used in the shucking contest this weekend as a part of the oyster festival. They start with 2000, drill it down to the 600 that will be packaged in random boxes of 20 each for the 30 contestants that come from all provinces of CA. The winner will go on to an international contest held in Galway. Green Park was being prepared as the site of a rock concert with temporary showers and portapotties for all the tenters coming into the festival. With mixed feelings, it was time for us to move on. 

A note for another trip, the lobstering season in the area we were in is May - June. They were gearing up for the opening up of the west coast (Strait side) on August 9th. All the boats load up and wait for a signal to all leave the harbors at the same time. Again, we just couldn’t stay with a deadline of 8/12 to get home.

Kouchibouguac National Park, New Brunswick - July 29 - 30

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Kouchibouguac NP is a large, beautiful national park on the eastern shore. We would have stayed another day if we could but this turned out to be a long weekend with New Brunswick Day on Monday. We were able to get one 2 night site and one 1 night site with the hopes of a cancellation the second night. Although this didn't happen, they allowed us to move together for the second night.

The park is on both sides of the Kouchibouguac River with the larger, more developed campground on the south side where we stayed. Wonderful bicycle trails throughout. We were able to get a couple rides in. One out to Kelly's Beach with dunes and white sand and a second 17.5 mile run around to the other side of the river and out to Loggicroft where the fishermen's wharf is located.

Acadian Isles, NB - July 27 - 28

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Out on the NE most point of New Brunswick, the Acadian Islands are mostly bogs, marshes and blueberry fields. Miscou where we stayed is 50% bog. It takes 10 years for 1 centimeter of peat to build up. This machine is used to vacuum up the peat. Much of the area is French speaking Acadians but everywhere is bilingual; people and signage.

Black Point , NB - July 26

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Just another beautiful campsite on the Bay of Chaleur along the Acadian Coastal Drive at a campground called Camping by the Bay in Black Point, NB. According to our neighbor in a Rialta, New Brunswick is the only bilingual province. The folks here have all been extremely friendly and traveling just got a whole lot easier.

Next stop, the Acadian Isles. 

Perce & Bonadventure Island - July 24 - 25

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Our stay at Cote Surprise in Perce was a surprise when we realized we had picked campsites right next to a very active playground. The further end of the grounds would have been a better choice but the campground was chock a block full. The reason - it is in a beautiful location on a cliff overlooking the town of Perce and across at Perce Rock and Bonaventure Island and very walkable to town. 

The next morning, Steve, Ellen & I left to catch the early ferry to Bonaventure Island. The first part of the trip was a mini pelagic trip that goes part way around Perce Rock and then around Bonaventure Island before landing at the pier. This gave us great looks at all sorts of birds including gannets, razorbills, guillemots, common murres and seals. The island is a national park with hiking trails around and through the island. 

The far side is one huge gannet colony that tops over 70,000 nesting pairs with young. Somehow the colony escaped our knowledge probably because of our lack of understanding french. We soon learned when we crested a hill and were hit with the noise, smell and wonder from all these birds. The observation decks were right in with all the nesting gannets.

Gaspe - Forillon NP to Perce - July 19 - 23

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Here we are at Perce with Perce Rock in the background. Our stay is at Cote Surprise, a commercial CG that has a beautiful view overlooking the water. We have just arrived so more will come about this area in another post. 

We haven't had internet for 5 days so have a bit of catching up to do. Working backwards, we had a wonderful 4 day stay at Forillon National Park at the tip of the Gaspe in Lands End. This is a really well maintained park. We stayed on the North Side at Des-Rosiers CG right near the beach. The CG was immaculate. Our loop was in a loosely wooden area of aspens and evergreens.The weather can be damp and cold so the shower/restroom areas have an extra room with picnic tables and a wood stove for campers to hang out. There are other similar buildings throughout the park so it can be enjoyed in all kinds of weather and temperature. So what's great about Forillon? Dramatic rock cliffs, wildlife, pelagic as well as woodland birds, forests, meadows, wildflowers, fishing history . . . .  lots to do and see. Biking, lighthouses, whales, birds of course, waterfalls, bear cub and lots of porcupines. 

The highlights of the trip along the north coast to Forillon included the Jardins de Metis/Reford Gardens, wonderful smoked fish at Atkins et Feres, mead wine at Vieux Moulin, lighthouses, small villages and a submarine.

Although it is getting late, there are many kids playing on the porch where I sit and the internet is slow so it is time for bed!

Route des Monts Notre-Dame - July 18

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The plan was to cross into Canada at Fort Kent with a destination of du Bic National Parc but apparently dogs are not allowed in any of the provincial parks in Quebec. Slight oversight on my part! Considering the number of folks that travel with dogs, this is a bit short sighted and thankfully not the case in New Brunswick, PEI or Nova Scotia. For now we will to stick to commercial campgrounds until we get to Forillon National Park on the eastern end of Gaspe but if tonight's stop at Hotel Metis is an example, this will not be too much of a hardship. 

We diverted along the St. John River, cleared customs at Madawaska and took a scenic drive through the country along the Route des Monts Nortre-Dame stopping at several spots including the Pointe-au-Pere Lighthouse. Tomorrow the Reford Gardens and further east.

Portage, ME - July 17

Clear skies and quiet Sunday traffic was a good combination for a new journey. We along with Steve & Ellen are traveling north to Quebec, the Gaspe Peninsula and who knows where from there. 

Thunderstorms, rain, mosquitos and double rainbows rounded out the last part of the day but we found a quiet spot on Portage Lake less than 60 miles from the Canadian border at Fort Kent. Phone and internet will be spotty for the next several weeks but will post when we can.

Shake down trip - Western MA - July 6 - 11

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Switching out Alaska for Western MA and Plan B, we headed out with friends Steve & Ellen for a week's shake down trip to try out their new Speedy. With typical NE weather, we had a little bit of everything from very humid warm days to rain, thunder and sun. 

We traveled to Lee and October Mtn. State Forest to visit Naumkeag, a gilded age Trustees of Reservations property and surrounding areas of Stockbridge and Lenox. From there, we visited the Hancock Shaker Village in Pitttsfield and across the border into NY with a stay at Schodack Island State Park on the Hudson River. The final night's stay was in Savoy Mtn. State Forest in Florida, MA just outside of North Adams. This campground was my favorite atop the mountain in an old apple orchard that gave us a chance to visit the Sterling and Francine Clark Institute. The museum has a fabulous collection of Winslow Homer, Renoir, John Singer Sargent and so many other great artists with a special exhibit of the Nudes of Prado.

Taking the slow road home, we traveled along the Mohawk Trail (Rte. 2) through the mountains and hills with a stop at Shelbourne Falls in search of Josh Simpson's glass works.

Hull, MA - Mar. 26

Home! Sleep, unpack, mail, laundry, sleep . . .

3,861 Miles

J. Strom Thurmond Lake, Appling, GA - Mar 24

Petersburg CG is the largest Army Corp. of Engineers CG on J. Strom Thurmond Lake. Like all ACE CG's, it is well set up, beautiful and immaculate. The sites are huge, private and almost all are on the water. We were OK getting a site for the 1 night but they are booked out for the next week. I asked if it was because of Easter weekend and found out no, it's because of the Masters. 'Course I had to ask what the Masters were; golf of course! This is the place that people either book to be here or locals come so they can rent their homes out for $10,000 for the week! For me, it's all about the fireflies that I haven't seen for many, many years and of course the wonderful fish dinner.

St. George SP - Mar. 21 - 23

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Sugar Hill Campground is well named for the sugar sand dunes that surround it. Like St. Joe's, there are miles and miles of white sand beaches with clear water. Unlike St. Joe's, the campground is beautiful with generous well spaced campsites. We happened upon a 43' site that has plenty of room for Speedy and a travel trailer or two along with us. #40 - a great site.

Going back to St. Joe's, we had to move to 3 different sites because I didn't make reservations 11 months back. With the exception of our last site, #5, the Gulf Breeze CG was densely populated with extra tents, vehicles, people and kids overflowing their space. Still it was beautiful and seemed to have more birds than St. George.

We love St. George and is a perfect last stay in FL before we work our way back tomorrow. We have biked from one end of the peninsula to the other, still have one last shot to put fresh fish on the table (Harry!) and Nina has found paradise with sand flats to run on the bay side. Harry has discovered a new popular artificial bait used around the gulf - Fishbites. Lets hope they do soon!

Success! Fishbites work . . . . for me! Pompano for dinner. Looks like a little fish but would have fed 4.

There is a volunteer astronomer here for the month of March with a 5" telescope. Harry opted to look at the sunspots mid day while I braved the bugs looking at Jupiter and the 4 moons before 1 eclipsed behind. Couldn't hold on to wait for the spot to come around!

On our way into St. George, we had another opportunity for fried oysters in Appalachicola. This time we tried Boss Oysters. Both this restaurant and Hole in the Wall were excellent. The Hole has more character and is cheaper. Boss, although a bit more expensive, came with a generous 10+ oysters. Might have to go one more round to declare a winner.

Tomorrow we head out and start the sprint home so posting may be slim.

St. Joe's SP - Mar 17 - 20

Arrived in the rain and managed to swap out sites so that Steve & Ellen were next door for the one night they would be with us. This worked out well to gather for dinner in our little van. It's been a long five months since I have been able to bird with Ellen and catch up with their lives and ours. Short but sweet, it was a good visit graced by wonderful birds like the great horned owl.

We got the better part of the day as we now sit in the rain but Speedy left an assortment of books from their "lending library" so all is good.

Mitchell Lake CP, Appalachicola NF - Mar 16

This campground was beautiful with large, level sites. When we arrived the camp host said that they were having a problem with no see ums.  Very true but this was only an overnight for us before going to St. Joe's to meet up with Steve & Ellen. There is a 4.5 mile hike that looked really interesting going through all different types of habit along the river but it was a bit hot, Nina was having trouble with pollen and we wanted to poke through the town of Appalachicola in search of fried oysters. We found them at a restaurant called Hole in the Wall.

Newport County Park, St. Mark's - Mar 13 - 15

This park is right at the head of the road down to the St. Mark's Wildlife Refuge. Many, many birds and great biking. We got into a routine where I set out in the morning by bike and Harry came along with the sag wagon bringing lunch around noon. My favorite bird - the little guy to the left, a Vermillion Flycatcher, and yes he was this bright!

The stop was enriched by meeting Didier, a bicyclist from Quebec, Canada who was cycling FL from Orlando to Key West, up to St. Marks in the panhandle continuing west to NOLA and back to Orlando. It was a small world when he told us he has camped at Wompatuck in Hingham several times and visited Nantasket Beach. Hopefully our paths will cross again.

Jim & Sue, fellow birders and camper van folks, also pulled into the campground after we had first met them in Cedar Key. They were the ones who tipped us off to the nesting great horned owls a block out of town. 

Shell Mound CP at Cedar Key - Mar 9 - 12

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Bugs, bugs, bugs but Shell Mound County Park is a beautiful place to stay and just 12 miles into town. 

Cedar Keys is part of the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge with great birding, kayak/canoeing, fishing (although not successfully) and small town with shops, restaurants and the best place for ice cream! One of our favorite areas in FL.

We stayed an extra day or two to get us through the weekend and fellow campers told us about a great horned owl nesting with 2 owlets. A must see! We hoped to stay a night at Manatee Spring SP but they were full so on we went to Newport Park at St. Marks.

EG Simmonds CP - Mar 7 - 8

Just a short stop to regroup before we head back north towards the panhandle. This is an odd park originally built for veterans. Seems there are many that winter over here for months on end.

Harry's comfortable spot was short lived when we were told to take the hammock down. This isn't an unusual rule except that there were several other hammocks, clotheslines and Christmas lights hanging all over trees in other campsites. Different rules for different folks!

Sarasota - Mar 3 - 6

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Chris is the longest, first friend in my life so always a pleasure to get together with he & Diane and visit their new home in Sarasota.

We had a great time touring Sarasota with the farmers market, a Cuban lunch at Columbia Restaurant in St. Armand's Circle, Nanday parakeets at Island Park, tailgating at a polo match, bicycling and much more.

Nina made instant friends with their pups, Onee & Sage and enjoyed the pool. Wonderful visit!

Ocala NF & Lake Louisa - Mar 1-2

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We were still moving south to Sarasota and our friends Chris & Diane so each of these stops were overnights. We have been to Juniper Springs SP in Ocala before and a good bet for finding the FL scrub jay.

Lake Louisa is a very nice place with many equestrian trials around lakes and across fields. Highlight was a swallow-tailed kite flying over as we arrived. This is worth a return trip some day.

Hwy. 81 South Bound - Feb. 28 - 29

Easy Sunday drive to Winchester, VA with pleasant 60 degree temps. New this trip is a radio with the addition of Sirius. What a pleasure listening to continuous good music.

The bad, something's wrong w/the TV - no Downton Abby tonight. Can't have it all!

First night, Winchester VA Cracker Barrel - quiet spot. Second Cracker Barrel, Mooresville, NC not so quiet.

Cold, Sea Fog and Blue Skies - Feb. 14, 2016

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Cold, cold, cold, beautiful morning in Hull with sea fog, icicles, frozen ocean and blue skies. Many thanks to Peter & Diane for a tour around town.