Thursday, February 7, 2013

Everglades National Park - Flamingo - Feb. 7 - 14

I had this mental image of the Everglades that goes something like this: Haz-mat suit, mosquitoes inches thick, pythons, of course, surrounded by swamp filled with water moccasins and alligators! It may be like that in the summer but not this time of year. 

The Everglades is a totally misunderstood place that is beautiful with endless things to do, and no, we did not see any pythons (or snakes for that matter)! The park service provides ranger talks 5 nights a week under the stars looking out over FL Bay, day programs and hikes, bird walks every morning and canoe trips daily at Nine Mile Pond all for free. There are many ponds and walks such as the Anhinga Trail where you can be guaranteed to see lots of wildlife up close and fishing for Harry. When stopping at a Bass Pro Shop, he decided to get FL license and give it a try.

We stayed 8 days but wished we’d planned for the 2 week maximum. Flamingo campground is all the way down 40 miles from the park entrance surrounded by coastline and mangroves. The campground is in a field w/palms and trees for shade. Pileated woodpeckers were on both sides of our site building nests in the dead palm trunks. Steve and Ellen had arrived several days before us, already knew the lay of the land and had befriended Alan and Ruth setting the stage for my immersion into bird watching!

Bikes were a must for cycling to the amphitheater, different ponds, the marina and Visitor Center. S & E’s campsite was the place to be at dusk when a barn owl predictably made several passes across the field hunting. Next door, Alan, a professional birder, tutored Ellen and I on bird identification and hotspots for seeing rare birds. Almost every morning, the 3 of us went on the bird walk, sometimes followed by a second looking for yet another new bird. We went on an early bike/walk looking for the reclusive Mangrove Cuckoo and found a Hermit Thrush instead. Several nights we dined at the Buttonwood CafĂ© by the Marina where dinner was cooked in a 5th wheel pulled up to the side and you could bring your own wine. The second time around, we brought our own wine glasses as well because the styrofoam cups just didn’t make it. We also found it better to order cheap (sandwich or pizza) after getting 6 small oysters with the fried oyster dinner.

Every day was special but the 12th, my 60th birthday, was perfect! We picked different days for the canoeing trip so S & E could stay with Nina. The 12th was our day so for 4-5 hours we were canoeing across ponds, through mangrove tunnels and old airboat trails. I told Harry to avoid using the J stroke so we wouldn’t get picked as the chase boat at the end of the line but he did it anyway and back we went! Alligators were so close, we had to switch sides to paddle to avoid hitting them in the head. Waiting in the back while everyone went single file through the tunnels, alligators were bellowing a couple yards away in the mangroves. The day before on S & E’s trip, their group came across an alligator with a PFD in his mouth! What were the chances of being born and dying on the same day of the year! The day ended with a special dinner of grilled lamb, Alan and Ruth singing Happy Birthday, and we all enjoyed ice cream, Lacy cookies (thanks to Ellen) and another bottle of wine.

Reluctantly, we said our goodbyes on the 15th and left leaving time for a final stop at the Anhinga Trail in search of the Purple Gallinule. The parking lot had signs warning of Turkey Vultures tearing windshield wipers and rubber trim off cars. It’s pretty serious and tarps are provided for those who want them. In fact this is a problem throughout the parking lots in the park. Take a look at the photos! One more stop just outside the park by Canal 111 in search of the Vermillion Flycatcher who was sitting right there waiting for me and on to a Laundromat before joining Dan and Marcia in South Miami.

Photos