1655 Miles to MN - May 24 - 27

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Back through the border landed us in Hiawatha National Forest at Monocle Lake CG, Brimley, MI for a night then on to Pictured Rock National Lakeshore recommended by Tom. The park runs for miles along Lake Superior with sandstone cliffs, perched dunes, lakes and forests with at least 5 different kinds of pines and birch. Nice campsites backed up to 12 Mile Beach on Lake Superior. Although worthy of much more time, we all felt the urge for going after a stop at Miner’s Castle to see the sandstone cliffs. 

Settling in on Rte 28 to make some distance, we stopped in a church parking lot for lunch and then time and distance came to a halt. Harry noticed Speedy’s right rear was quite low and still losing air. With a slow response from AAA, the guys decided to get started which proved to be a good exercise in learning how things worked or not. This story has many chapters that are still unfolding and detailed in Steve’s blog so I won’t repeat except to comment on the super nice guys who came by in a golf cart from a nearby campground and stopped to help. Turns out they are local power line men who had traveled to MA in Hurricane Irene when we had so much damage to the power lines. My cousin’s husband is a line man and travels the distance to help in disasters so these guys are true heroes. We got campsites at nearby Van Riper State Park in Champion, MI while Speedy doubled back about 40 miles for a new tire and joined us later.

S & E have targeted Minot, MN for repairs that have now increased x 3 adding in brakes and a macerator pump. After trying and failing to find space in 5 different campgrounds on busy Memorial Day Weekend, we are chancing a night at the Cass Lake Rest Area. Although the sign says no camping, there is a 10 hour limit which should do it. We are right by a lake with well manicured grounds and lots of birds including 2 common nighthawks that just flew over. One more for my life list along with pine siskins seen earlier in the day. 

The current plan is to follow Speed to Minot and then we will head to Theodore Roosevelt NP for several days while S & E get the needed repairs.

On the Road - May 21 - 23

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Finally we are off packed to the hilt on our journey cross country to Alaska with our friends Steve & Ellen. After an extra year of planning, tweaking, adding this and that and a clean bill of health, it feels good. We decided on the northern route through the Adirondacks in NY into Ontario, across the top of Lake Huron and back into the US at Sault Ste. Marie. From there, we’ll head west to Glacier NP, Montana and NW up through Canada to Alaska. For a fleeting moment, we talked about adding Pt. Pelee NP on the north side of Lake Erie to our route but would have been at the expense of Detroit and Chicago traffic.

Sunday’s drive was uneventful bringing us to Lake Eaton CG in the Adirondacks leaving the border crossing for tomorrow. Somehow I always seem to be driving for border crossings and this was no different when we crossed into Ontario at Ogdensburg, NY. The Canadian security guy passed my passport back with a dead pan expression and said that it was invalid! My heart sank and was speechless. He told me to read page 5 that said the passport was invalid unless signed and then he smiled! Funny guy! I passed through both Canadian and US Border checks in January and neither one picked up on it. Of course, he never asked if we had weapons, liquor or an extra body in the back.

The last two nights were spent in lakeside campsites at Lake Mew CG in Algonquin Provincial Park, Whitney, ON. Harry & I had our first black bear sighting while biking the Old Railway Bike Trail. The bear crossed the trail in front of me while coasting downhill. I think I intended to stop the bike so I could watch him but it didn’t play out that way. The squeal of my breaks sent him off at a run. Probably a good thing but it was really cool seeing this big, shiny black bear. As our friend Peter would say, “look around Harry”. We both did after that. On the same ride, I saw my first black-backed woodpecker and many of the same warblers that we left behind in MA. The park is really beautiful with many lakes, views, wildlife, birds and backcountry to explore . . . another time. Tomorrow back over the border.

Saint-Pie-de-Guire, Quebec - April 18 - 20

This was a quick trip to Quebec to pick up the Nicova Combo cargo box seen on the back of our van in this photo.

Although we have known about this box for awhile, we had a chance to really look at one when we were in Collier-Seminole in the Everglades this winter. We knew then it was a "must have" to give us a bit more room for stuff and carry bikes on our long journey to Alaska this summer.

Nicolas Boisvert, the founder of the company and avid cyclist designed a light, watertight cargo box that mounts on the trailer hitch and swivels all the way to the side of the van so the back doors can be fully open. The company has since been bought by the Tessier family, Pierrot, Francois, Suzanne and Pierre, all talented artists who have carried on making and improving this wonderful carrier.

Next to their house, Pierre has created a park of sculpture with works from 40+ artists around the world including his own. Across the street are acres and acres of corn and soybean fields where they let us spend the night. Needless to say this was an intriguing destination even in the pouring rain. Some day I would love to visit again when the weather is better and they have events in the sculpture park. 

For those interested, here are some links:

Nicova - www.nicova.ca

Parc de sculptures - www.essarts.org

Mar 3 - 9 - North bound

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Just a quick update. Positioning for the sprint home, we moved east to Savanna for a night's stay in a parking lot by Ferry's Landing along side a feral cat colony before joining back up w/Steve & Ellen at Buck Hall in SC the next day.

We all continued north to Carolina Beach State Park, NC followed by a couple nights in the Croatan National Forest at the Neuse River CG with a trip into New Bern.

The weather forecast wasn't promising for Friday so we moved up to Assateague National Park for a few days. Wild ponies in their winter coats, woodcocks displaying, fresh oysters grilled, dinner by a roaring fire with good friends all a nice finale before heading for the Lewes Ferry to Cape May tomorrow and hopefully home by Saturday before the next snow storm.

Mar 1 - 2 - St. Mark’s WMA, Newport, FL

Let’s start with dinner because I’m still digesting. Just a stone’s throw over the bridge from Newport Campground is Ouzts’ Too Oyster Bar & Grill, a location too good to be true wallpapered by $1 bills, confederate flags and an assortment of other stuff. Although not particularly busy, dinner took over 40" minus my oysters that weren’t shucked yet. No surprise because we had been entertained by a fellow behind the bar telling stories with both hands interspersed with a slam of a hammer on an oyster every five minutes or so. Another table was told to be patient because the oyster maestro needed to tend the fish smoker and would return in another 20-25”. No worries, “just line up the oysters and I’ll be back” . . . sometime. Dinner was a draw - Harry thumbs up and I down. The best was the bill. Harry stopped by earlier to check it out and was given 2 coupons for free drinks. The bill had the # of the item (who would know beer was item #4) and the quantity but no dollar amount, tax, credit or anything resembling bookkeeping. Our poor waitress was only on week 3 and would be surprised if she makes 4.

Moving on, today was a wonderful day. St. Mark’s WMA is directly across the street from the campground. Harry could relax and do as he pleased while I biked the refuge 11 miles down to the lighthouse. The birding included great sightings of the brilliant red vermillion flycatcher, sora, swallow-tailed kites, redheads and canvasbacks. Harry drove down to meet for lunch and a walk where we saw an otter run across the street, slide on his belly through mud and run up a bank on the other side.

Tomorrow it’s back to the east coast and slowly work our way north.

Feb 27 - 28 - Cedar Key

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A quick two night stay in one of our favorite spots in “Old” Florida, Cedar Key is close to the bend going into the panhandle. We stay at Shell Mound County Park that is about 8 miles out of town bordering the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge on all sides. First come first serve, there has always been space but coming in on a Monday is almost guaranteed. For the first time, we took #12 which is front and center next to the ramp and at the beginning of a trail out to a point. It really has the best air and view but can be noisy when the airboats are launched or hauled. It wasn’t a problem until about 11:00 last night. The roar of engines seemed to be all around but we never got the sense anyone was going anywhere. Being an odd time of night, the side door we hoped to keep open was shut and locked as were the other doors. Next morning we learned that a boat bringing in bags of oysters was busted by the Fish & Game folks.

Harry scrounging around the next morning found a bag of cast off oysters and took a modest half dozen to grill up for apps. Yum! So far, all’s quiet tonight.

Tomorrow after a quick visit to town, we are headed a bit more west to Newport County Park at the entrance to St. Mark’s Wildlife Refuge. A couple nights there and then it’s time to go back to the coast and meander home.

Feb 22 - 26 - Myakka River SP & Sarasota

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Myakka River State Park is one of the oldest and more popular parks in Florida with reservations hard to get unless made 11 months and a day ahead. We never know what we are doing tomorrow but lucked out by finding a 4 night cancellation in Old Prairie CG. A few sites down, we met fellow Roadtrekers, Mike & Judy, newly retired on a 9 month journey in their 210 Popular from British Columbia. Over the next several days, we shared many organizational, space saving, mechanical and electrical ideas that I know expanded our “to do list” and probably theirs as well. I hope our paths cross again.

With 58 square miles, there are many paved and dirt roads for hiking and biking at Myakka and the habitat is varied with wetlands, prairies and pine woods. The prairies are being aggressively restored through prescribed burns and many areas along the road had just been burned about 2 days before our arrival. During this visit, we got 2 of the 30 permits issued daily to go out into the wilderness preserve and hiked along w/Mike & Judy to Deep Hole, a sink hole that is about 130’ deep and attracts many alligators and birds. The park was in the process of preparing for a burn in that area by grinding down the scrub with heavy machinery that will be burned in the next several months depending on water level and humidity. A bit loud but interesting process to watch.

I was able to spend two early mornings biking down to the dam behind the concession area to photograph, one really foggy and the second bright sun with very different results.

Moving up about 14 miles, we spent a night with long time friends, Chris & Diane, at their home outside of Sarasota. Lots of catching up, a hike at Celery Fields (Audubon property), delicious meal and of course extraordinary selections in wine. Nina really enjoyed dog friends Onee & Sage. A wonderful stay - many thanks!

Feb 22 - Rainy drive up to Myakka River SP

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Just a rainy day drive through Marco Island looking for burrowing owls, haircut in Naples, food shop and now settled for four days at Myakka River State Park just outside of Sarasota in a very soggy campsite but the sun will shine tomorrow.

Despite the pouring rain, the owls were everywhere sitting on perches outside their mounds exactly where Steve told us to look. 

Haircuts on the other hand are always a wildcard on the road. Pulling into the shop parking lot where I had made an appointment by phone, there was a big barber's pole painted on the side, a sign advertising senior men's cuts for eight bucks and a bunch of guys inside getting buzz cuts. Panic set in and all instincts said run but I didn't and got a really great cut from Mari. Next week she will be opening her own salon and spa. To all friends living or traveling through Naples, if in need, go to MJ Salon & Spa, 4766 Golden Gate Pkwy, 239-455-2472.

The last treat just before the campground was finding a pair of sandhill cranes with one baby.

Feb 18 - 21 - Tamiami Highway

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Our last days at Flamingo were spent doing what we liked best. A phenomenal bird walk with Ranger Bob where we racked up 61 different species of birds including the mangrove cuckoo I found several days earlier. Lunch at the cafe by the visitor’s center and marina, a bit of photography and reading time, more fine dining in S & E’s screen tent with air conditioned drives sprinkled in to get a reprieve from the bugs and heat. During our time here, we had moved to 3 different sites trying to find more air and less bugs. Time to go.

On previous trips to the Everglades, we have always flown down the Tamiami Highway to somewhere else so this time the goal was to spend a couple days exploring Big Cypress National Preserve. One day at Monument Lake CG was very nice with sites around a man made lake in site 13 - the best spot. Spectacular sunrise coming up through the fog and trees the next morning. Next up, Collier Seminole SP where we caught up w/S & E and spent a couple nights before going our separate ways visiting family and friends. 

This was R & R so Harry had time to practice with his fly casting and extended his range another 10’. He had to stop when a 1’ baby alligator started chasing his fly (photo included). Another cool “nature at it’s best” photo op caught me unprepared. I was walking a trail and saw what I thought was a bird low on the ground but looking closer saw that it was a butterfly caught and being devoured by a lizard. Traveling light, I left my camera behind so what you see is from my phone.

Feb. 12 - 17 - Flamingo in Everglades NP

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One day blends into the next and almost a week later, our blood and energy is slowly getting drained. The fresher air lasted a few days and then the mosquito meter hit the top of the charts at “hysterical” and seems to be stuck. It is possible this is the new norm as the park continues the restoration of the watershed. Not surprising, the campground has been very empty. People come and go just as quickly. 

Regardless, we have been trudging around in long pants, socks, buffs treated w/insecticide, hats, nets and DEET. Soon you will see a group photo in our attire but until then here’s a preview of Nina modeling the Buff. 

We are still enjoying the birds, biking, some fishing and canoeing around to Snake Bight. Ellen has finally seen the elusive mangrove cuckoo and we both got awarded Everglades Junior Park Ranger badges for not bailing with all the mozzies. S & E planned to leave on Sunday and we have decided to cut our stay short by 5 days and do the same. Harry has been a pretty good sport but it’s time to move on. We’ll head west along the Tamiami and up the west coast of FL.