Leaving CA for Goodyear, AZ - Nov. 30 - Dec. 3

We had heard so much about Quartzsite being a place that snowbirds head for in the winter months so we decided to spend a night on the way to Goodyear to see what it’s all about. Come January/February, Quartzsite is wall to wall RVs, flea markets and festivals including a huge mineral and rock festival,  a “sellerama” and art festivals. 

We settled on Dome Rock BLM campground for the night. This is a free area where you can stay up to 14 consecutive days. Then there are the LTVA (long term visitor areas) with stays up to 7 months Sept – Apr for $180 and RV parks. Such a deal but what do you do all that time! We had a very quiet night with the place mostly to ourselves and the coyotes.

Kathleen and Lou Ann are friends from Hull who moved out to Goodyear just west of Phoenix. They live in a beautiful complex, Pebble Creek that offers every imaginable activity – golf, fitness, swimming, art and cooking classes and on and on. We got a chance to help out with the Homeless Youth Connection where Lou Ann volunteers. This is a great organization that helps homeless youth complete high school. Just need to pair them up with my friend Jack Zorski to help them dream and get funding for college. Lots of relaxation, great food prepared by Chef Molony and a guided tour through Costco! I have been hearing so much about Costco from my sister, Carol Murphy and Kathleen, I had to see what it was all about. Think I’m hooked.

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Across to Joshua Tree NP - Nov. 24 – 29

Skirting LA on a Sunday afternoon, we spent a night at Applewood CG in the San Bernardino Mountains and then detoured to Pioneertown before going into the park. 

Pioneertown was founded in 1946 by a group of Hollywood actors as a 1880s town for filming westerns. Some of the buildings are now artisan shops and others private residences. There were corrals in the back where RVs can dry camp although they do have restrooms. There was a saloon/restaurant, Pappy & Harriett’s, that has a story of its own but they also have music almost nightly. The Monday night we were there was “open mike”. This can be a good thing or deadly but we went and were blown away. Every act was great and musicians come from far and wide to perform here. It was so good, we came back 5 days later to spend our last night in the area.

Joshua Tree NP is part Mohave Desert above 3,000’ and part Colorado Desert below 3,000’. Coming in on the Tuesday before Thanksgiving was still a race for space but we were able to find a site at Ryan CG before it quickly filled. Pictures best describe but there were boulder stacks, yuccas including the Joshua Trees, assorted cactus and birds, rabbits and coyotes all of which we saw along with mountain lions and snakes that were thankfully camouflaged or hibernating. The temps were in the high 50 to 60s during the day dropping down to the middle 40s at night. Many of the campers were rock climbers (and tightrope walkers) which made us wonder if this is what college students do when they have no place to go for Thanksgiving. For our Thanksgiving meal, we brought along breast of duck that grilled up beautifully – a new favorite!

I became braver with the imaginary cougar that follows me around and hiked up to the 29 Palms Oasis and some of the hikes around the CG as well as Hidden Valley and Barkers Dam. It’s a pretty cool place that grows on you!

Photos on the way to JT
Joshua Tree Photos

Big Sur to Jalama Beach - Nov. 20 - 23

We should have held back a day because the first part of this spectacular drive was in rain and fog so we passed by several places we intended to stop and hike. The rush was on my part because I had a General Delivery package waiting in Santa Barbara that turned out to be “all for nothing” – a story for another day! 

We stayed one night in a campground at Los Padros NF, Kirk Creek in Big Sur and the next in the Morro Bay Marina Parking Lot. This was a tip from a guide and although questionable as to the legality, the sign specified parking could not exceed 72 hours. There were restrooms with coin showers and a beautiful harbor walk around to Morro Rock. There were also lots of shops and restaurants and Morro Bay was very dog friendly. Seemed like a perfect night for dinner out so we scouted out Dockside after seeing great reviews for BBQ oysters. They were wonderful!

After the unnecessary trip to Santa Barbara, we backtracked away from the congestion to Jalama Beach County Park for a few more beach days. It was here we learned that people were starting to gather en mass for Thanksgiving. Apparently it is really popular to go camping over the holidays on the west coast. We decided to start turning the corner and head to Joshua Tree NP to get settled for Thanksgiving instead of continuing down the coast south of LA.

Big Sur Photos

Morro Bay Photos
Jalama Beach Photos

Monterey - Nov. 18 - 19

Coming from Yosemite, my first reaction was that I didn't want to be here in what appeared to be a congested, honky coastal town. 

We picked the Veteran’s Memorial County Park that sits up on a hill 1.3 miles uphill from town. The first time to town, we coasted our bikes down but quickly realized the trip back up was impossible for either of us to ride. Nina and I walked back and forth each morning and soon got into the rhythm of the beautiful early morning light on the coastal walk, the marine life, Cannery Row and enjoying a cup of coffee and some sweet treat by the water. 

We met Jill, a friend of Harry’s, for lunch, got a chance to see the Monterey Aquarium, visited an unbelievable farmer’s market, got one badly needed haircut and really enjoyed the town.

Photos

Yosemite NP- Nov. 14 - 17

Due to my faulty navigation, we didn't make it out of San Francisco before the commuter gridlock and landed at the Walmart in Tracy for the night. The next day brought us to the Upper Pines CG in Yosemite. 

Anyone who has been here knows Yosemite is beyond description with so much to see, photograph, hike, bike and do. Roads that normally would be closed this time of year were open so we took the opportunity to drive Tioga Pass and Glacier Point Road to get an overview of the different geographic areas of the park. 

I bought Michael Frye’s “The Photographer’s Guide to Yosemite” that maps out what locations are optimal for the perfect shot at what time of day in what month. And of course, what time of year is best for waterfalls, wildflowers, foliage and so on. I won’t live long enough to do it all but we made it to a couple spots to catch the 15” of sunset on the granite, hiked to Vernal Falls with the 600 steps and soaked up as much as we could. Not enough but we will be back.

The last night, we traveled down to Mariposa Grove and Wawona CG for the night. It was a much better CG but the location was no comparison to Yosemite Valley.

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Bodega Bay with the Murphys - Nov. 9 - 13

Our friendship with Ted and Carol goes back to the beginning of time when Harry met Sally. I started working for Ted, an ophthalmologist at the MEEI, in the mid 70’s, met Harry one day over a business lunch and the rest is history.

This stop was a restful one.  The Murphy’s house sits on a hill looking out across the bay and is not more than a miles walk down to a bird walk on an estuary with the beach just beyond. Ted Jr., his wife Kelly, twins Katie and Jack and pup, Chelsea joined us for the first couple days. Katie and Jack are amazing 6 year olds going on 10 – warm, smart, athletic and lots of fun!

We also learned what happens when a dog gets “snaked”, one of my worst fears. Chelsea had gotten bit by a rattlesnake (probably a juvenile that didn’t know how to control its venom) not long before we arrived. The horror, pain, emergency, expense and scarring was no less than imaged!

After power walks with Carol, wine tasting, touring the area and a wonderful time spent catching up, it was time to move on. We passed through San Francisco to have lunch with Ian, their second son and then headed east.

Photos

Van lift in Dixon - Nov. 7 - 8

Click for Photos

Perhaps a bit anxious wondering if we were too impulsive having significant suspension work done on the road, we arrived at Valley Spring Works in Dixon at 3:30 for work scheduled the next day. Within minutes of speaking to Bill who designs and engineers springs for everything from missiles, ocean drilling, automotive recall issues, refineries to niche work with RoadTrek folks like us, we chilled and camped out in the parking lot for the night.

This post is for my friends interested in mechanics. Apologies to others who may want to fast forward. I will never remember everything that happened or was said but Bill was the kind of person who wanted us to understand everything about the van and know what he was doing. The front end was where the math, calibration and most time were needed. He checked tires, brakes, shocks, grease fittings, even the steering gear box and then measured and tested the existing springs. I missed the coil spring part doing laundry but believe that the new springs were measured, calibrated, heated (or calibrated by heat) and powder coated. I only wished Harry had picked the color red instead of black. It would have made for better photos.

The left rear had bottomed out and he questioned how the van was set up – placement of the generator, refrig, water tanks. Clearly most of the weight was on the left. He re-arched 3 of the existing leaf springs and added 2 new tapered leaves per side with each side calibrated separately for the load they would bear. The tapered leaves, thicker in the middle and tapering on the ends, was something new to give a more comfortable ride in the back. All new bolts, nuts, U bolts and all 8 grease fittings per side lubed, some probably for the first time because they were completely dry and took a whole tube of grease. These guys put in a long day and the light was fading towards the end but what a great job they did. We now have a custom suspension system designed for the weight we carry and at least an extra 6” of height!

Too late to go far but far enough to know the van handles beautifully, we went back to Lake Solano CG for the night. Tomorrow with a 90 mile run to Bodega Bay will be my chance to drive but the ride this evening was so much more comfortable and the handling a huge improvement. Prior to the lift, the van had developed a real bounce making me feel like Raggedy Ann and now it is smooth!  I can’t say enough about Spring Valley Works. They were worth the drive.

On to Dixon - Nov. 4 - 6

Leaving the fairgrounds, we made a stop in Ferndale to walk the town before heading SE. This was a beautifully preserved Victorian village surrounded by pastures. Founded in 1852, the pioneers farmed the rich land with dairy cows and the town prospered which was reflected in the buildings. The shops were fitting for the period. The Mercantile Shop was closed until noon but looking through the windows, we could see the old shelving, china and décor. My favorite was The Blacksmith Shop that represented over 26 different artisans with a working forge on one side. Designs ranged from period to contemporary with assorted candlesticks, lamps, sconces, chandeliers, tables, chairs, hooks, fireplace utensils and more.

Continuing south down Rte. 101, we targeted an Army Corp property on Lake Mendocino in Ukiah, Kyen CG. According to the website, they were open year round but when we arrived at 6:30, the campground was closed due to budget reductions. The Day Use had signage for no overnight parking/camping but the boat ramp did not. The alternative being a casino parking lot, we decided to stay and “ask for forgiveness instead of permission”. We did get a visitation the next morning from a ranger who forgave but confirmed all ACE CGs in the area were closed. At $35/night, the State Parks were a bit rich for us so we continued to Lake Solano County Park in Winters to relax for a couple days before having the van work done in Dixon.

Along the way, I saw a strawberry stand and had to stop. My conversation with the Asian lady selling the berries went something like this. “I would like a box of strawberries.” “No box, half box.” “No, I just want a box, this box.” (pointing to a pint of berries) “No, half box, you must take. We close, go home. Half price. You take, no more berries, we go home.” Harry was watching my nodding, shaking head and when I turned around with a half carton/over 4 quarts of strawberries, I thought we’d both lose it! At home, I’d know exactly what to do but in the van, I had no place to put them never mind how to use them all. Harry became instantly popular peddling berries around the CG.

Solano CG which follows along the Putah Creek was loaded with birds. Back before the property was a park, it was part of a ranch. At that time, they introduced peacocks to take care of the rattlesnakes. Needless to say, the peacocks adapted beautifully and there are hundreds of them throughout the park and surrounding area. It was also some of the best birding that I have had with the different habitats. My favorite - a phainopepla!

Tomorrow, the van gets a lift.

Photos

Humboldt County Fairgrounds - Nov. 3

More poking along the coast, we passed through Trinidad, a cliff top fishing village, Arcata Marsh & Wildlife Sanctuary and Eureka, a really cool Victorian Seaport. A self confessed food snob, I was very pleased to go into Murphy’s, a family grocery in Trinidad, to find local fish, meat, bread, everything and more on my list that I haven’t been able to find since Central Market in WA. Totally irresistible after 2 months of camping was a dinner of twice baked potatoes, local lamb chops and kale cooked at the Humboldt County Fairgrounds CG in Ferndale.

The fairgrounds were in farm country. Camping w/or w/out hookups was in the RV area or the fairgrounds itself which we would have chosen if we hadn't settled first. 

These grounds were also used for a catch and release cat program. Strays were fixed and released in the fairgrounds where they were given food and shelter and could choose to stay or not. There was a day group and another that stayed in the barns until night with a pecking order between and within the groups. For CA, camping was affordable at $10 dry/$15 w/hookups, all with showers and dump. Nina was in cat heaven!

After a walkabout this morning, the fairgrounds were really beautiful. Built in 1896, it was old but neat as a pin, landscaped, everything freshly painted and active. It's a good bet there aren't any rodents either. There was a flower house, artist building, museum and barns for judging, cow testing and more. The horse and cow stalls were active with at least 2 dozen animals in residence. This was a nice find for an overnight or longer if we were to stay in the area.

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Prairie Creek Redwoods NP/SP - Nov. 1 - 2

Backtracking through Crescent City on a really smoky, foggy day, we settled on Prairie Creek CG for a couple nights. The weather got a little wet but still got some biking and hiking in. Photos tell the story best.

November 2nd brings us to the 2 month mile marker of being the longest time we have spent in our 19' van. Time has gone by quickly and yet I think back to all the fabulous places we have been, family I haven't seen for 7 - 10 years, their homes I have only heard of and lives I could only imagine, it seems like we have been gone for a really long time. On the flip side, life in the van is as good now as when we started so on we go.

Photos