Yosemite NP- Nov. 14 - 17

Due to my faulty navigation, we didn't make it out of San Francisco before the commuter gridlock and landed at the Walmart in Tracy for the night. The next day brought us to the Upper Pines CG in Yosemite. 

Anyone who has been here knows Yosemite is beyond description with so much to see, photograph, hike, bike and do. Roads that normally would be closed this time of year were open so we took the opportunity to drive Tioga Pass and Glacier Point Road to get an overview of the different geographic areas of the park. 

I bought Michael Frye’s “The Photographer’s Guide to Yosemite” that maps out what locations are optimal for the perfect shot at what time of day in what month. And of course, what time of year is best for waterfalls, wildflowers, foliage and so on. I won’t live long enough to do it all but we made it to a couple spots to catch the 15” of sunset on the granite, hiked to Vernal Falls with the 600 steps and soaked up as much as we could. Not enough but we will be back.

The last night, we traveled down to Mariposa Grove and Wawona CG for the night. It was a much better CG but the location was no comparison to Yosemite Valley.

Photos

Bodega Bay with the Murphys - Nov. 9 - 13

Our friendship with Ted and Carol goes back to the beginning of time when Harry met Sally. I started working for Ted, an ophthalmologist at the MEEI, in the mid 70’s, met Harry one day over a business lunch and the rest is history.

This stop was a restful one.  The Murphy’s house sits on a hill looking out across the bay and is not more than a miles walk down to a bird walk on an estuary with the beach just beyond. Ted Jr., his wife Kelly, twins Katie and Jack and pup, Chelsea joined us for the first couple days. Katie and Jack are amazing 6 year olds going on 10 – warm, smart, athletic and lots of fun!

We also learned what happens when a dog gets “snaked”, one of my worst fears. Chelsea had gotten bit by a rattlesnake (probably a juvenile that didn’t know how to control its venom) not long before we arrived. The horror, pain, emergency, expense and scarring was no less than imaged!

After power walks with Carol, wine tasting, touring the area and a wonderful time spent catching up, it was time to move on. We passed through San Francisco to have lunch with Ian, their second son and then headed east.

Photos

Van lift in Dixon - Nov. 7 - 8

Click for Photos

Perhaps a bit anxious wondering if we were too impulsive having significant suspension work done on the road, we arrived at Valley Spring Works in Dixon at 3:30 for work scheduled the next day. Within minutes of speaking to Bill who designs and engineers springs for everything from missiles, ocean drilling, automotive recall issues, refineries to niche work with RoadTrek folks like us, we chilled and camped out in the parking lot for the night.

This post is for my friends interested in mechanics. Apologies to others who may want to fast forward. I will never remember everything that happened or was said but Bill was the kind of person who wanted us to understand everything about the van and know what he was doing. The front end was where the math, calibration and most time were needed. He checked tires, brakes, shocks, grease fittings, even the steering gear box and then measured and tested the existing springs. I missed the coil spring part doing laundry but believe that the new springs were measured, calibrated, heated (or calibrated by heat) and powder coated. I only wished Harry had picked the color red instead of black. It would have made for better photos.

The left rear had bottomed out and he questioned how the van was set up – placement of the generator, refrig, water tanks. Clearly most of the weight was on the left. He re-arched 3 of the existing leaf springs and added 2 new tapered leaves per side with each side calibrated separately for the load they would bear. The tapered leaves, thicker in the middle and tapering on the ends, was something new to give a more comfortable ride in the back. All new bolts, nuts, U bolts and all 8 grease fittings per side lubed, some probably for the first time because they were completely dry and took a whole tube of grease. These guys put in a long day and the light was fading towards the end but what a great job they did. We now have a custom suspension system designed for the weight we carry and at least an extra 6” of height!

Too late to go far but far enough to know the van handles beautifully, we went back to Lake Solano CG for the night. Tomorrow with a 90 mile run to Bodega Bay will be my chance to drive but the ride this evening was so much more comfortable and the handling a huge improvement. Prior to the lift, the van had developed a real bounce making me feel like Raggedy Ann and now it is smooth!  I can’t say enough about Spring Valley Works. They were worth the drive.

On to Dixon - Nov. 4 - 6

Leaving the fairgrounds, we made a stop in Ferndale to walk the town before heading SE. This was a beautifully preserved Victorian village surrounded by pastures. Founded in 1852, the pioneers farmed the rich land with dairy cows and the town prospered which was reflected in the buildings. The shops were fitting for the period. The Mercantile Shop was closed until noon but looking through the windows, we could see the old shelving, china and décor. My favorite was The Blacksmith Shop that represented over 26 different artisans with a working forge on one side. Designs ranged from period to contemporary with assorted candlesticks, lamps, sconces, chandeliers, tables, chairs, hooks, fireplace utensils and more.

Continuing south down Rte. 101, we targeted an Army Corp property on Lake Mendocino in Ukiah, Kyen CG. According to the website, they were open year round but when we arrived at 6:30, the campground was closed due to budget reductions. The Day Use had signage for no overnight parking/camping but the boat ramp did not. The alternative being a casino parking lot, we decided to stay and “ask for forgiveness instead of permission”. We did get a visitation the next morning from a ranger who forgave but confirmed all ACE CGs in the area were closed. At $35/night, the State Parks were a bit rich for us so we continued to Lake Solano County Park in Winters to relax for a couple days before having the van work done in Dixon.

Along the way, I saw a strawberry stand and had to stop. My conversation with the Asian lady selling the berries went something like this. “I would like a box of strawberries.” “No box, half box.” “No, I just want a box, this box.” (pointing to a pint of berries) “No, half box, you must take. We close, go home. Half price. You take, no more berries, we go home.” Harry was watching my nodding, shaking head and when I turned around with a half carton/over 4 quarts of strawberries, I thought we’d both lose it! At home, I’d know exactly what to do but in the van, I had no place to put them never mind how to use them all. Harry became instantly popular peddling berries around the CG.

Solano CG which follows along the Putah Creek was loaded with birds. Back before the property was a park, it was part of a ranch. At that time, they introduced peacocks to take care of the rattlesnakes. Needless to say, the peacocks adapted beautifully and there are hundreds of them throughout the park and surrounding area. It was also some of the best birding that I have had with the different habitats. My favorite - a phainopepla!

Tomorrow, the van gets a lift.

Photos

Humboldt County Fairgrounds - Nov. 3

More poking along the coast, we passed through Trinidad, a cliff top fishing village, Arcata Marsh & Wildlife Sanctuary and Eureka, a really cool Victorian Seaport. A self confessed food snob, I was very pleased to go into Murphy’s, a family grocery in Trinidad, to find local fish, meat, bread, everything and more on my list that I haven’t been able to find since Central Market in WA. Totally irresistible after 2 months of camping was a dinner of twice baked potatoes, local lamb chops and kale cooked at the Humboldt County Fairgrounds CG in Ferndale.

The fairgrounds were in farm country. Camping w/or w/out hookups was in the RV area or the fairgrounds itself which we would have chosen if we hadn't settled first. 

These grounds were also used for a catch and release cat program. Strays were fixed and released in the fairgrounds where they were given food and shelter and could choose to stay or not. There was a day group and another that stayed in the barns until night with a pecking order between and within the groups. For CA, camping was affordable at $10 dry/$15 w/hookups, all with showers and dump. Nina was in cat heaven!

After a walkabout this morning, the fairgrounds were really beautiful. Built in 1896, it was old but neat as a pin, landscaped, everything freshly painted and active. It's a good bet there aren't any rodents either. There was a flower house, artist building, museum and barns for judging, cow testing and more. The horse and cow stalls were active with at least 2 dozen animals in residence. This was a nice find for an overnight or longer if we were to stay in the area.

Photos

Prairie Creek Redwoods NP/SP - Nov. 1 - 2

Backtracking through Crescent City on a really smoky, foggy day, we settled on Prairie Creek CG for a couple nights. The weather got a little wet but still got some biking and hiking in. Photos tell the story best.

November 2nd brings us to the 2 month mile marker of being the longest time we have spent in our 19' van. Time has gone by quickly and yet I think back to all the fabulous places we have been, family I haven't seen for 7 - 10 years, their homes I have only heard of and lives I could only imagine, it seems like we have been gone for a really long time. On the flip side, life in the van is as good now as when we started so on we go.

Photos

Grants Pass - Oct. 30 - 31

There’s something about the folks in OR that drew us back when shit happens. 70 miles NE to Grants Pass brought us first to one RV dealer who referred us to another better able to help. After a quick assessment and part ordered, we headed off to Valley of the Rogue SP for the night with the bonus of a laundromat, showers and 2 cool new birds (acorn woodpecker and red bellied sapsucker).

Somewhere along the way, I had picked up a copy of “Wild” By Cheryl Strayed recommended by friends because it was all about hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. Camped out at Siskiyou RV World for the day, timing was right to put a dent in a new book.  As I started reading, a light bulb went off! Driving the rim of Crater Lake a week ago, at least two parking lots were blocked off and filled with crews filming. You can always tell it’s a movie set because they use those indiscreet yellow signs with black lettering “To Set”. Filming of Wild started mid October and the PCT goes around the rim so it’s highly likely they jumped on the beautiful weather we had and were filming there.

Four hours later convinced I too could benefit from hiking the PCT, we had a pristine new PVC L connection down under where no one will ever notice except that we again smelled sweet. We also got a lead from Steve on a coil and suspension guru in the Sacramento area. We have a date set on 11/8 to meet with Bill Erb at Valley Springworks in Dixon, CA. It makes sense to talk with a mechanical engineer whose specialty is coil and suspension dynamics, manufacturers his own parts and has taken a special interest in solving low clearance problems with Roadtreks.

Don’t bring bananas into CA! Crossing over to OR, we had noticed an agricultural checkpoint southbound going back into CA. I asked around and the ladies at the RV place said yup, no fruits or veggies going over the border. I stressed a bit because we had all sorts of stuff and wrestled with whether or not to hide some or all. The checkpoint ended up being closed when we returned but something to remember. Nightfall got us to Smith River Rec. Area, Panther Flat CG, Gasquet, CA. Nice spot.

Photos

Jedediah Smith SP/NP CG, Crescent City, CA - Oct. 29

Finally over the border to CA and into the Redwoods, we have a site in the Jedediah Smith SP/NP in Crescent City. After an afternoon of exploring, we were coming back into the CG when the bounce of the van coincidentally hit a high spot caused by a tree root and disrupted the seal or broke the phalange on the pipe connected to the holding tank (black of course). It’s not a debilitating problem but one we have to fix so we may opt to go back north to OR where there is a cluster of RV folks rather than push through CA and miss places we want to see.

We will be pursuing a lifting kit to get another couple inches higher.  Six inches off the ground isn't making it under normal situations out here. Because of the rain in this area, every place we pull into has crowns that cause problems.

Couple Photos

South Coast of OR - Oct. 25 - 28

My sister headed west in the early 1970’s, ended up in Bandon and never came back east to live. As a younger sister, I always had a curiosity and put Bandon on my bucket list. ‘Course she met her husband there which I can’t duplicate but the stories of finding agates and petrified wood along the beach fascinated me. A couple nights at Bullards Beach State Park and many walks along the beach didn’t disappoint.  Walking into the sun at low tide seeing the sparkle of an agate was so cool. The rock hound obsession begins – agates, jasper, petrified myrtle wood  . . . . !

Leaving Bandon, we looped back about 30 miles north to Coos Bay to see Cape Arago, Simpson and Shell Island (home of one of the largest mammal haul outs), Shore Acres State Park and Charleston where we got a “loin of albacore tuna” for dinner. Shore Acres was the private estate of Louis J. Simpson.  The mansion is no longer there but the gardens, garden cottage and acreage along the coast were magnificent. It was a drizzly day but the volunteers were in the process of stringing 300,000 lights on the shrubs, trees, garden house, pavilion and pond area for “Holiday Lights” so it was really spectacular.

I bought this book, Gem Trail, at a rock shop in Bandon that listed spots to go rocking. It also talked about camping possibilities in the areas mentioned so I thought we could try a place along the Rogue River for the night. Thankfully we checked it out at lunch time, could have camped there in the gravel and bushes a ways from the river but declined. Traveling into Port Orford, we followed lettering on the road, OCEAN VIEW. This brought us up to Battle Rock Wayfinding Park on a bluff that overlooked the Port of Port Orford. Overnight parking was welcome, free and with the most beautiful panoramic view. The Port is the only open-water port on the OR Coast and 1 of 6 “dolly” ports in the world where boats are hoisted in and out of the water daily.

Next night, we tried one more suggestion from the Gem Trail. This was Social Security Bar along the Chetco River in Brooking. People who retire in OR must not leave because this was the second beach/bar that we have found named after pensioners in OR. It turned out that the parking area was now posted for Day Use Only so we continued up river to a SP that was listed as open all year. Closed, we continued into the Siskiyou NF and settled in at a primitive site that I think was the Miller Bar CG. There wasn’t a sign and the GPS location wasn’t particularly accurate but it was a primitive site in the NF! In the gravel along the river bed there were amazing chucks of jasper and other assorted rocks. The van is getting heavier!

Photos

Crater Lake & the Upper Klamath NWR - Oct. 23 - 24

The weather forecast was for more sun and the web cam at Crater Lake crystal clear so we continued south. As we approached the North Entrance to Crater Lake, several signs said that the entrance was closed. Not to take No for an answer (and based on what I had read online), we continued. Turned out road was open. It was just self sign-in at the booth. Another perfect day without  a cloud in the sky. The East Rim was open but not the West. The one trail I wanted to hike was covered with snow and ice. My knee was doing a lot better but not 100% so decided it wasn’t worth the climb.

Coming down the south side, we continued to Rocky Point Resort CG on the Upper Klamath Lake. This is in the northern part of the Klamath Basin National Refuge. We don’t stop at commercial RV CGs often and were pleasantly surprised. The view was spectacular and again we were the only ones there. This is more like a camp probably frequented mostly by fishermen. There are cabins, docks, a restaurant and general store. The property is owned (or leased) by the Odd Fellows and managed by Todd and Sondra. This was to be a one night stop but with a canoe, we stayed one more day and should have stayed a week! (Would have if I had a spotting scope)

The southern coast of OR was calling so back we went.

Photos